Underwater towns

Tea Tree and Brownies in Sardinia

15th February 2014
Carloforte harbour


Tea Tree and Brownies in Sardinia.


Santa Margherita di Pula, Sardinia

We awoke in the morning to find that the weather overnight had changed in Santa Margherita di Pula, Sardinia. We were now getting a real bouncy swell rolling into the bay accompanied by a growing wind. There was only one thing for it. Put the kettle on for a cup of tea. No person in their right mind ever does anything in the morning before putting the kettle on….. no, not even that!


The wind was getting up

Tree and Hornblower

Tree and Hornblower (Richard)

Going onto deck was quite funny as of the other five or six boats anchored there all the skippers were on deck, steaming mug of tea or coffee in hand summing up the situation. Tree on Tinkerbelle was not to be seen so she was no doubt whipping up a new batch of brownies for everyone.

I certainly was not happy with the weather, especially as it was making me spill my tea. There was a quick deliberation before I decided to put the kettle on again. It was obvious, even to me that we could not stay where we were as conditions were getting worse but who would be the first to break?

Discretion in my book is always the better part of valour so together with Tinkerbelle we quickly upped anchor and left. The wind and seas were building fast and coming straight from where we wanted to go. Actually we hadn’t yet worked out where we wanted to go but they were coming from that direction anyway. Even now, having looked in our log book which I always keep up to date, the page is blank meaning we really did make a hasty exit. I do remember that as soon as we started to leave the other boats all followed us and the smell of brownies, spilling cups of tea as they did so.


Somewhere to hide.

Very close by there was a small island calling our name. It didn’t take long to decide this was the best place for us to hide and we anchored behind it. There was only room for us, Tinkerbelle and another boat but it was a different world. Either side of us we could see big waves crashing past and the other boats that had set off just after us were really being blown over by the wind. Where we were was perfectly flat and windless.  That meant two things. I could put the kettle on again for another tea and Tree could continue with her secret brownie recipe. The day was looking up.

After a few hours conditions calmed down quite a bit so we decided to continue on our five year mission to seek out new life forms and new civilisations. We were boldly going where thousands had gone before. Porto Malfatano, Sardinia.


Porto Malfatano, Sardinia

Porto Malfatano, Sardinia

Porto Malfatano, Sardinia

Porto Malfatano in Sardinia is a large bay which would offer us some fairly decent protection overnight. It also had a couple of beach bars that were open and very friendly. We also met Fred, Adrienne, and their three young girls who were sailing on their yacht “Zazan”. Now bear with me here but Fred is French, Adrienne is Brazilian but they and their children are now American. Now you think a French American would be very loud and very arrogant but no. They are a wonderful family and wonderful company. We spent the night on their boat having a few drinks (no tea this time but Tree had found another victim, sorry, someone else to become addicted to her brownies). Over the next few weeks Tinkerbelle, Zarzen and Cygnus III would be sailing together.


Anchoring in a Roman high street in Capo di Pula, Sardinia.

Capo di Pula, Sardinia

Capo di Pula, Sardinia

Later the following morning we all decided to sail further up the Sardinia coast to Capo di Pula which looked like a good, sheltered anchorage. There was also an ancient Phoenician/Roman town there called Nora which seems like a pretty stupid name to call a town. I would love to have been able to tell you more about the sewers and Mosaics but it was raining and rough when we got there. It did not seem like a good idea to go ashore. Half the old town had fallen into the sea in the bay and a lot of it was just below the surface. This meant for some nifty navigation (for nifty please read lucky) and fun anchoring amongst an underwater town.

So far Sardinia had not been good to us weather wise but there was always tomorrow when we would sail up to the marina at Cagliari before crossing from Sardinia to Sicily. It was going to be a long sail. It also meant putting the kettle on again for another tea and a fresh batch of brownies.



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